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LOW Advanced Guide

  • Thread starter DeletedUser9614
  • Start date


CHAPTER 0 – Intro
CHAPTER 2 – Fair Trade
CHAPTER 3 – Happiness
CHAPTER 4 – City layout
CHAPTER 5 – Resource Usage
CHAPTER 6 – FP exchange
CHAPTER 7 – Diamonds
CHAPTER 8 – Finding the last BP
CHAPTER 9 – GvG Foundamentals
CHAPTER 10 – Selling goods for FPs
CHAPTER 11 – Review of high efficiency FPs mining
CHAPTER 12 – The Arc
CHAPTER 13 – GvG HQ and Defense Bonus
CHAPTER 14 – Units combinations for GvG
CHAPTER 15 – Down-trading
CHAPTER 16 – Sabotage
CHAPTER 17 – Large scale GB leveling
CHAPTER 18 – Sniping aggressor
CHAPTER 19 – Chateau Frontenac

CHAPTER 0 - Intro

Please note that this guide is up to date to mid Oceanic Future and one powerful GB or new feature can flip entire guide upside down like Arc or GE did in the past.

There are so many opinions of what you should do in the game and what you should not do. Many players come to Lords of War on en7 with poor understanding of the game and heavily opinionated for the level of their application. It is very often simple repetitive items that people miss. We wanted to make a comprehensive list of items that need to be addressed at this level. This is a guide for an advanced player who would like to turn into expert and optimize all aspects of the game. We believe we can train you earlier before you join us! Of course we will keep our most important secrets that secure our position, but we want community members to learn if they wish.

There are many ways to play this game. Your city might look beautiful, you may want to have all GBs, you may want to have impenetrable city defense, or you might want to have only newest age buildings. This guide gives specific instructions on building competitive account that will support competitive guild. You might not agree with some information in this guide based on your game style. However, this guide answers the common problem “I progress so slow….”

Who wrote this guide? People who run 5 years top1 guild. We are the leaders of the largest guild on en by points and fights. Our players hold top1,2,3,4 on en7. We hold 10 largest GBs, and +/-90 of top100 highest GBs on en7. We hold the largest FP income for a guild of all guilds on all en world possibly the largest daily income of all guilds in all servers. We are happy to improve younger players and learn from them in the future as well.

Feel free if you find errors, typos, or problems with sentence structure. I would be happy to correct it to make a better product for everybody.

7/7/17 CH11 - Previously 98 square combo was changed to 116 combo becasue buildings were not bordering with each other.
7/7/17 CH3 - Typo "GBs" was changed to "Cultural buildings"
7/7/17 CH8 - Typo "tar" was changed to "paper"
7/7/17 CH11 - Sakura was marked 5%
7/8/17 Answer to bridgeman55 about cheery combo - this is value per repeating unit not total (not 15%
7/8/17 Answer to HRC about number of years: I do not have time to play troll games. If you want answer to this question go look somewhere else, and you can find it. This is not the point of this guide, please stay on topic.
7/8/17 Answer to HRC about this guide being "wrong" yes and you are one who will not like the guide and that is OK. No hard feelings. These are specific methods tested over and over optimized and calculated and applied several times. The hard optimized data is here, but you might like it, and that is OK. Many players that I have trained question extensively these methods, but they just like results.
7/8/17 Answer to HRC, why RAH early? This is a common question. The answer to this is that there is some elaboration in chapter 4 on why you want RAH. It deals with your city running 50% happiness, removing all happy buildings that is how you compensate for space. Leveling Lighthouse to lvl7 is a very poor choice in early game as it requires large investment of FPs. Anybody who advises to get a late arc at this point of the game is either fool or want to fool others.
7/8/17 Answer to HRC to player has to choose be farmer or fighter, please read my guide before you post again please. THIS GUIDE ANSWERS HOW TO PLAY IF PLAYER CHOOSES TO BE COMPETITIVE PLAYER, meaning you can serve all functions that guilds want at the same time and be one of the main engines of any guild that you are in. This guide does not answer how to be a battlerepeater, rock, be the biggest spender on attack/traz buildings or have beatiful city.
7/13/17 CH11 - New combo added
7/13/17 CH11 - Shine was placed in fp/square order
7/13/17 CH7 - Big KUDOS to bidgeman for fixing a lot of typos in CH7
7/13/17 CH11 - Many Fp/sq and goods/sq errors were fixed and sets were re-assigned by re-calculated order
7/13/17 CH7 - Sample images was added
7/13/17 CH12 - New chapter added and we gonna tell some secrets :)
7/13/17 CH11 - 120 combo corrected
7/14/17 CH13 - Added new chapter something that most leaders should understand well
7/15/17 CH13 - CDM/Observatory typo fixed
7/21/17 CH14 - Initiated (not complete)
7/22/17 Answer to Augustavian about Dynamic and Lotus: Dynamic Tower is extremely costly for what it gives and inefficient. In most worlds, if you find a right seller you can buy new goods for 1 FPs per 5 goods. If you build dynamic tower early yourself to high level, you are wasting massive amount of FPs because early levels of dynamic tower (before 20) are not cheap. Of course, if you have army of noob to get this GB for you for free, then this is not a bad investment. You get 3 extra goods per level (and 1 goods per lvl above 10), and you have to work it every day (this wears you down after years of repeats). You are likely to not be so excited about doing another round after 1-2 years. For FP GB like cape you get 1FP per level (5 goods) and you basically all you have to do is click to collect FPs and find a right goods seller if you need goods not FPs. In these terms, Cape is is 1.66-5 times more efficient than dynamic. Lotus temple is a waste because Alcatraz should be sufficient for extra happy and cost of getting lotus temple goods and FPs greatly exceeds what it gives. In later game, Lotus unfortunately is a trash as it does not give anything valuable. Most cities have an excess of happiness is very late game so you invest in GB that will not be used in the future. As per buying goods, you should be careful for that because in most cases noob buys goods, and experienced players sell them. Majority of time the goods for GB are just not worth the amount of FPs spent. You should think three times before you do it. I sold +1,000,000 goods by now and I offer competitive ratios, and I would not do 95%++ of reverse trades because the plan of the buyer is simply inefficient for the price paid. I cannot emphasize how important is the zipping through research for players, and conversation about GBs should be secondary unless you plan to ram with Arc to high level quickly. Still people find out ways how to waste 100's and 1000's Fps on not needed GBs. On contrary, if you can hire a army of noobs to work on these GBs for you for free, especially Dynamic Tower is worth it.
7/23/17 CH15 - New added chapter
7/26/17 Answer to angeloferrano about RAH. There are many assumptions that you make that are incorrect in comparing RAH and LOA. First of all, RAH is an essential GB, but it should neverbe upgraded early to lvl10 nor LoA should. Both GBs can be purchased upgraded to lvl2-4, and give much better bang on the buck. RAH is very important in the early game as another source of goods as well as supply boost, and if you tech properly you should be always lacking supplies becasue you zip through research. RAH is not so important in mid-game, but it is very important in late game when large amount of supplies for loop quests.
7/27/17 CH16 - New added
8/2/17 Yugure - Is that what you mean with sniping? Sniping is stealing rewards from GB owners where sniper makes actual profit
8/2/17 Yugure - Allowing you to snipe, but if I look at the description of the Arc it says that it donates good ... Please refer to Chapter 7, and I will probably write entire chapter on sniping
8/2/17 Isaiiah - The only part I didn't understand is why we should aim for 80% technology? The reason that initially you want 80-90% on research is becasue of expansions.
8/2/17 Isaiiah - I guess my question is from Indy Age, how long would you spend here and how many resources would you pool before moving on? One age should not take you more than 1 month
8/2/17 Isaiiah - "If I'm lucky" There is no "lucky" in this game. If you hope to be lucky in this game and score a reward, you are most likley being screwed.
8/2/17 Isaiiah - How do players get GB's with like +80 levels? The answer is hinted in Chapter 7, but I might write entire chapter to explain this
8/2/17 Isaiiah - Is it the high level ARC that gets them such a good return on BP investment? Arc makes BPs self-perpetuating at high levels
8/2/17 Augustavian - With reference to large GB owners "It's also that they have hundreds of daily FP." There are several multiple factors that determine how fast you level GB and some of these are elaborated in this guide. Base income is one thing, but I know plenty of people that got arc to lvl80 with very low income (around 100fps/day) because they enslaved others to do their arc basically.
8/2/17 Isaiiah - What are your thoughts or priority? Finish research. Load extra FPs to Arc. Get Arc to lvl80. Find other high Arc. Move to Fps GBs. More about it later on.
8/2/17 Bridgeman55 - Comparing low level GBs to lvl10-20 is not a good way to contrast FP GBs becasue you compare the highest cost levels (lvl7-23). Why would you want to spend FPs on most expensive levels? Build one GB at a time. Now, if you are short on BPs, there are solutions to that and I will describe them later.
8/2/17 CH17 - Added
8/4/17 CH18 - Added
11/30/17 CH11 - Updated with winter '17 event and Halloween '17 event, also even more efficient Indian combo (in FPs/sq) than all others is added
11/30/17 CH11 - Corrected goods value for Black tower thanks Ilela
11/30/17 CH1 - Updated Kraken, thanks Ilela
12/12/17 CH1 - Part of CH1 rewritten to elaborate on all details
3/24/17 CH11 - Cherry size 64 is added, thanks bridgeman55
3/24/17 CH11 - 116 Indian is removed. It is poor layout. thanks oceanbrew. your Indian 120 is actually indian 128, the empty space cannot be utilized by any FP making buildings, any empty space that is separated from roads is always wasted because all Fp making buildings require roads, both 108 & 121 are superior to 128 layout (Indian)
3/24/17 CH11 - consistency in units
3/24/17 CH11 - rules for qualification for best combos
3/24/17 CH1 - updated the heading missing Chateau, thanks Rhea the Blessed 160
3/24/17 CH14 - added TF section
3/24/17 CH1 - blue galaxy (BG) OF update
3/24/17 CH1 - seed vault added
3/24/17 CH1 - general update with more details
3/25/17 CH2 - updated
7/11/18 CH19 - added
9/15/18 CH1-10 - a lot of grammar corrected
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This chapter divides GBs into several groups. Based on these groups, it can be predicted if GB should be purchased or not. This grouping most likely will apply to future GBs unless a new unusual class is created. GBs belong to 6 classes:
GROUP 1: GBs that significantly increase income and ability to progress should be acquired as soon as possible: The Arc, Chateau, St. Marks, Lighthouse, and Royal Albert Hall
GROUP 2: GBs that are important in GE, GvG, and PvP: Zeus, Aachen Cathedral, Castel Del Monte, Alcatraz, AO, Kraken, Temple
GROUP 3: GBs that are excellent but might have to wait a little bit, in other words, FPs GBs:
Hagia Sophia, Cape, Castel Del Monte, AO, Inno Tower, Kraken, Blue Galaxy
GROUP 4: GBs that in most cases are not recommended: Coliseum, Gaea, Deal Castle, St. Basil, Capitol, Notre Dame, Space Needle, Lotus Temple
GROUP 5: GBs that do not help players but they help guilds: Observatory and Atomium
GROUP 6: GBs that are just OK so they can be built or not: Tower of Babel, Dynamic Tower, Frauenkirche Dresden, Rain Forest Project, Habitat, Voyager V1, Atlantis Museum, Seed Vault

All details about GBs on this page:

GROUP 1: GBs that significantly increase income and ability to progress should be acquired as soon as possible: The Arc, Chateau, St. Marks, Lighthouse, and Royal Albert Hall
There are two major ways players can progress at high speed: fast research and high arc with sniping. Should a player focus initially high on research or high arc will be addressed later on. St. Marks, LoA, and RAH increase coins and supply income along with extra goods that allow faster research progression. They should be leveled no higher than level 5 until player researches very late ages. Also, goods always can be sold to noobs for profit. At later stages of the game, Arc bonus and FPs become more significant, hence leveling GBs with goods, coin, and supply bonuses are not the primary goal. Players that are passive, semi-active, or active should leave their Arcs at a lower level, and focus on obtaining research and expansions. Super active players can attempt to raise their arc as soon as possible to level 80 to take a full advantage of sniping. Sniping will be described later on. Chateau will boost all profits on quests. Chateau like other GBs should be left at a low level until late game. Leveling chateau becomes crucial when players utilize loop quests. Chateau will also increase diamond income from quests.

GROUP 2: GBs that are important in GE, GvG, and PvP: Zeus, Aachen Cathedral, Castel Del Monte, Alcatraz, AO, Kraken, Temple
Players often fixate on acquiring the attack bonus early. Unfortunately, unless heavy diamonds are spent or these players are super active, their progress will be slow. For long-term, better outcomes are achieved if the focus is on the economy before spending loads on attack GBs. These GBs such as Alcatraz, Aachen, or Zeus have no FPs return. Some will argue that raising Zeus allows further wins in GE, but the miniature benefits are not worth the cost. In order for these GBs to have a profound effect, tens of levels if not hundreds of levels must be added. In those cases, players need a very heavy income. In conclusion, it is wiser to start building up income first. However, if a player decides to still build the attack bonus, it is most advisable to build one GB at a time after level 10 of each GB. If a player is not active in GE or GvG, building these GBs is strongly discouraged. Some players believe that building an attack bonus is an approach to losing fewer units to become a stronger player in GvG. This is a false belief. Building Alcatraz and producing units is the most efficient way to improve strength in GvG. Building attack bonus over Alcatraz will produce better results in GE as time is not a factor in GE. Alcatraz can be purchased early and upgraded to level 3 which gives 5 units a day that accumulates over time for a very cheap price. The following 2 levels do not give units. Zeus-CDM-Aachen can be upgraded to level 5 which will give some extra attack bonus, but the price tag still is low. The interesting fact about AO is that reward per level increases with higher levels, unlike all other GBs. At level 40, AO increases the strike by about 0.2% per level while at level 70, the increases are about 0.3% per level.

GROUP 3: GBs that are excellent but might have to wait a little bit in other words FPs GBs:
Hagia Sophia, Cape, Castel Del Monte, AO, Inno Tower, Kraken, Blue Galaxy

Any great building that increases FPs is worth building. There is one single reason for it: they will pay off themselves eventually. The earlier they are purchased, the quicker they can start paying off the initial investment. If a player has large coin storage, they can be burned into Fps that can be invested in those GBs. E.g. 40M coins at 350,000/1FP (1000FPs), can purchase level 5-6 Cape that can provide extra 5-6 Fps/day. BG should be purchased only when the large amount of 5 FPs terraces or maharajas are present to fully take advantage of the double bonus.
The "benefit" or the net cost assuming high arc help (discussed later) vs. cost is:
Cape > Inno > Hagia > AO > CDM > Kraken > BG
This efficiency pattern is derived for level 0 -> 70 with 90% arc help.
Although that order can be changed based on the preferences of secondary bonuses.

GROUP 4: GBs that in most cases are not recommended: Coliseum, Gaea, Deal Castle, St. Basil, Capitol, Notre Dame, Space Needle, Lotus Temple
Medals: Coliseum, Gaea and Deal Castle. In the early stage, getting 50 medals per day is good enough, but in long term it is nothing. The suggestion is to build it to level 1, and then delete it when this GB becomes inefficient. The two main ways to obtain medals are taking positions on late age high-level GBs and loops quests with the presence of chateau.
Defense: St. Basil and Deal Castle. The best defense is collection every 24 hours. I strongly suggest using the 5-diamond feature to collect city. Players can make all the arguments for wasting their city space on defense building and great buildings. The collection with 5-diamond takes like 30 seconds and in most cases, everybody can do it and everybody who wants to play this competitively can afford with diamond farming. The only caveat is that 24-hour houses start in Colonial age, so getting to this research point is the key. Once rewards are collected once every 24 hours, even attacker breaks in, there is nothing to steal. Another argument suggests that these GBs contribute to pool bonus of the guild but in reality even tens of levels of these GBs they have no significant impact on the guild pool bonus. In conclusion, players make consistent arguments to waste space in their cities with defense GBs that in reality are useless.
Inefficient Population: Capitol. Inno is the superior population great building and has an excellent second bonus as well. All resources should be focused on leveling Inno instead of Capitol.
Happiness: Notre Dame, Space Needle, Gaea, and Lotus Temple. There is no logical justification for an experienced player to spend large quantities on GBs that provide extra happiness. Happiness is not an important factor in this game as it does not affect FP income which is the driving force of this game. Also, it is easy to obtain a lot of happiness without spending a large amount of FPs for a happiness GB.

GROUP 5: GBs that do not help players but they help guilds: Observatory and Atomium
They are good GBs and the are significant guild help, but they should not be leveled too high levels until late game. They should be leveled to extensive levels only when players have excessive income and other important GBs above level 80. Atomium lost its value since Arc was introduced.but it can be still considered at this point. The defense bonus from the observatory is not large but it is significant. To put in in perspective, it takes about 2 observatories from level 10 to level 80 to add additional AA sector with 50% defense bonus.

GROUP 6: GBs that are just OK so they can be built or not: Tower of Babel, Dynamic Tower, Frauenkirche Dresden, Rain Forest Project, Habitat, Voyager V1, Atlantis Museum, Seed Vault
Passive extra goods bonus: Tower of Babel, Frauenkirche Dresden, and Rain Forest Project. All of these are reasonable options to increase raw goods stocks. RFP can become annoying when BP bonus becomes high and every time player motives the message with new BP pops up.
Some extra resources that require work: Dynamic Tower, Voyager V1, Atlantis Museum, and Seed Vault. PvP is now very unpopular because rewards are small for the required work. If a player is a late stage and has plenty of time, Voyager is an option, but it is no an exciting option. Similarly, Seed Vault is not efficient enough. Even at level 80, it only gives one reward every 8 polivating actions (12.5%) with only about 1/3 of that being goods and 1/100 of that being diamonds. This will translates into about 20 goods per 25 polivating actions and 50 diamonds per 800 polivating actions. Again, Seed Vault might be an option for late age player with a large amount of free time on hands. Atlantis Museum and Dynamic Tower are probably best of these 4 options, but still, the cost vs. benefit is low. Questing with chateau or trying to find maharajas might be much better options that do not consume a massive amount of time.
Extra population: The Habitat. With more expansions and more high-efficiency FP building available that require population, Inno alone might not be sufficient alone to support a population. Players should consider purchasing the Habitat if Inno becomes insufficient.

Final thoughts. If you are told that you should donate to "XXX" GB to get more BPs because it is very important, probably you are being fooled. If you look hard, you can find most BPs for very cheap. At some stage of the game, BPs become free. Is the information above valid in your world? Look at top guilds and top players and compare to information presented here then make up your mind. For most players research NOT leveling GBs will give you more bang on the buck. Higher level GBs are often given fancy bonuses, but research, in the end, is the most efficient option that will allow you to grow fastest (except Arc that is properly used). If you are not a super-hyperactive player, spend 80-90% of your income on research and 10-20% of your income on GBs.
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CHAPTER 2 – Fair Trade

"Please take my fair trades," this yell for help can be heard quite often. If a noob is helped with his trades, in most cases both sides lose the person who begs for trades (if that person is a noob) and a person who is willing to help out. If a noob cannot learn why his trades were not taken, a person who takes noob's trades just causes more lack of learning and ignorance. Because if a noob can post silly trades, then yell for help, and then get actually get them taken, this promotes even more of these trades. The best approach to this problem is simply not to take them. This forces a noob to reevaluate and learn why he is failing to obtain the resources that he needs.

Many players have a misconception of what does good guild mean in terms of trading. It means a guide that provides a broad market where reasonable trade can be sold quicker. Good guilds are not here to take trades that are posted by noobs that assume their trades are fair because they read some noobinfo stating that they are. This is a very important distinction. The reason for failure why a trade is not taken is not a fault of a guide, but a player who is posting them.

The “what is fair” and “what is not fair” has been a discussion for a very long time since FOE started. FOE created a really nice diversity of buildings and costs for each resource that introduces complexity to trading. Some smaller guilds with a lack of organization usually introduce one of two trading systems. First, the system 1:1 for the same age and 2:1/0.5:1 up or down trade. The second system in more advanced guilds is based on the coin cost of the goods. The calculator to determine coin cost can be found here: http://foe.kwister.com/trades

Unfortunately, even the second system comes closer to quantifying the true value of goods, both systems do not reflect truly all variables that determine the actual value of goods. In order to determine the true value for each the goods, all variables including size of the building, coins, market supply, coin, and other variables need to be considered. If a true value cannot be determined, the "fair" ratio between goods cannot be established. An example follows.

Is paper for tar a "fair trade" 1:1? One would say that these resources cost the same amount of coins and are of the same age, therefore it is. However, the footprint of tar building is more than double than paper building. This is why there tends to be more paper on the market as compared to tar. Those that procude tar and trade it 1:1 for a paper will be a disadvantage. In later ages with complex pathways of refining goods that difference becomes more subtle and most goods can be estimated to be fair 1:1 for the same age.

Another question to ponder upon is whether CE: TE trade ratio should be 2:1 according to the age of 1.16 : 1 according to coin cost? The most likely answer is that it is neither of them, and the true value lies somewhere between those two values. In this case, a market supply and demand has a huge impact on the established market ratio. Do current latest Age GBs produce CE goods? If they do, there will be an excess of CE goods on market, hence their perceived value will be low. It would take more CE goods to pay for TE goods in this situation.

The concept of the speed of trading needs to be addressed at this point. The attractability of trade and speed of trading are inversely proportional. The less attractive the trade is, the more time it takes to sell it. The more attractive trade is, the faster the trade is taken. This is why more advanced guilds will introduce a free market system. It allows players to regulate those two variables to adjust the attractability vs. speed balance by adjusting the trade ratio depending on the purpose. If the purpose is to make a profit, a worse ratio to a buyer can be chosen. A seller can assume it might take more time to sell the trade. If the purpose is to supply missing goods that are needed immediately, a better ratio to a buyer can be chosen. A seller can assume it might take less time to sell the trade.

Can 100 OF goods be sold for 100 bronze age goods? Probably immediately. Can 100 bronze age goods can be sold for 100 OF goods? It might take a long time, but there is a small possibility. There is always a chance some player might misclick, and eventually the trade it is taken. It might take a long time for such even to occur.

Unfortunately, players cannot have to speed and profit at the same time. Their response is usually well known "please take my fair trade" phrase. If a player does it without premeditation, by taking his trades other players hurt this noob because this noob does not learn. If the person who moans has a deliberate plan, then a person who responds is getting screwed. In both cases, never responding to "please take my fair trades" is the best option.

The bottom line is that if a trade is not selling fast enough, the value needs to be added for the trade to be sold. Avoiding a situation where there is time pressure to obtain goods is a good idea because it allows more profit. This means that planning ahead and obtaining goods early equals profit.

The answer to “what is fair” and “what is not fair” is the current market price of goods that are determined by multiple factors listed above. How is the true value determined? Look at your market. What are people selling? What is needed? What are the current ratios? How quick your similar trades were taken? Also, asking some experienced traders might help you to determine the true value of goods.

The general guidelines for trading are:
- Same age trades usually sell for 1:1
- 1 age across varies from 1.0 : 1 to 2.0 : 1
- Goods from larger buildings are usually rarer and harder to buy
- The more time you can wait for the better deal you will get
- The faster the goods you want, the worse ratio you need to offer
- Offer a variety of options to a buyer for what you need
- Add more friends to your friend list that are possible buyers
- Begging your guildmates for taking poor ratio makes you look inexperienced
- Begging noobs and getting goods for free is perfectly fine ;)
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CHAPTER 3 – Happiness

How much happiness (cultural buildings) should you have in your city? Many of you will go to the smiley face (120%), some of you might choose (100%), and all of you will try to avoid angry face (50%). Why would want angry people in their city? You probably have been told that "happy face" gives you an extra boost to production and coins, while "angry face" takes away your coins and production. Then why would you even not follow the advice? There are several reasons why choosing "angry face" or "normal face" are often superior to "happy face."

Let me explain two factors that make "happy face" better than other two, and then I will list all factors against it. Your happiness level affects the number of ranking points from battles. It improves your ranking to some extent, but it does not affect your city progress. If you have a significant amount of SoKs, you probably want to harvest most coins possible and that is possible with 120%. Well, it slows it down as you will read below.

Let's assume you are a person without great buildings because this will matter. You have to build 40% more happiness buildings to achieve a "happy face" as compared to "normal face." The happy bonus is only 20% coins and supplies (total 120% in the case of lacking GBs). Is it worth it? In most cases no. Moreover, what is the worst part about cultural GBs they will eat up your guildmates aids actions? In order to keep your cultural buildings polished, they need to be clicked twice per day. If you have 10 of them, these buildings will eat up 20 actions per day for no real reward.

Which buildings should I get to have my happiness produced most efficiently? Only large cultural buildings. They will eat least aid actions from your guildmates and friends. Try to not to build smaller cultural buildings as they will consume more of these actions, and avoid at all costs building any decorations. If you have "holes" in your city, the instinct is to fill it with decoration -- wrong. The right thing to do is either: redesign your city, so you do not have these holes (more about it later). The second option is to fill it with roads. Roads give happiness but they do not eat aids actions.

What happens when you get St. Marks, Lighthouse, or Alberts? Many players will assume that you still have 20% more coins or 50% fewer coins for "happy face" and "angry face" respectively. That is NOT the case. What you have is only 20 % of the BASE level increase, not 20% of overall your coins. This makes a big difference. Let's look at two examples of coins between "normal face" and "happy face" when you have St. Marks lvl1 and/or lvl10.

St. Marks lvl1

This is NOT how coins are calculated:
Total boost when happy is NOT = 120%*(BASE(100%) + St.Marks(100%))
Total boost when normal is NOT = 100%*(BASE(100%) + St.Marks(100%))

This is how coins are calculated:
Total boost when happy is = BASE(100%) + St.Marks(100%) + Happy(20%)
Total boost when normal is = BASE(100%) + St.Marks(100%)
The increase is coins is NOT 20% but only 10% = 20%/200%.

If you take this example and extend it to St. Marks lvl10, the bonus from "happy face" will become even more insignificant. The difference will be just a few percents. Moreover, losing coins from "angry face" will be much smaller probably it will be 10-20% overall. The supplies have an even larger effect because their boost is even higher, and happy faceless effect on how many supplies do you collect.

One last aspect that needs to be addressed is should you have a normal face (or whichever face you want) when all buildings are polished or all buildings are not polished? Neither answer is correct. Look at how much polishing you get, and at a normal polishing rate, you should have your desired happiness level. Especially you want that level to be set when you collect the coins.

The bottom line is:
- 50% is the best unless you have one of the 3 following reasons (super-large shrine farm, your higher priority is ranking, or you just started the game like 1 or 2 months ago)
- Build large culture buildings if you have to and no decorations, in late game transition to GBs happy only
- When you start the game use "normal face" avoid going to "happy face"
- When you get a boost from GBs for supplies and coins make sure you never go to "happy face" and stay at "normal face"
- When your St. Marks, Lighthouse, and Albert Hall gets to higher levels, you might consider "angry face" or "normal face" options. Some calculation might be needed to determine which one is more efficient.
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CHAPTER 4 – City layout

I want to make a clear distinction that I give you tips for your city more efficient not more beautiful. I understand that you might adore your city layout, and that is fine, but I want to point out things where your city is inefficient.

Do not ask yourself what buildings do you want to keep. This will turn you into sentimental keeping bunch of inefficient buildings that will take up large space in your city. As a result, you will feel that your city "has no space." Start with asking? Which builds are so efficient and important that I want to keep them. Make a list, and go there. Be analytical about their reward per space required.

The entire game in city design is about minimizing "holes" and the number of roads. The number of holes in your city can be adjusted by aligning your buildings correctly. You should plan for as many holes as many victory towers (1x1) and watch towers (1x1) because they can be placed anywhere, and they do not eat up aid actions. DO NOT be tempted to fill your empty spaces with decorations because they will waste aid actions coming to your city. If you cannot avoid holes, just fill them up with roads. Minimizing the number of roads is a little more challenging and this is what I will discuss today.

A city should be designed before building if you want the highest efficiency and least costs for rebuilding. There are currently two major options for how to design your city:

1) Use city planner
2) Use Excel (e.g. google docs) few good examples are attached:










Excel is superior to the city planner as it offers much more flexibility and speed.
It takes 5-10 hours to make good layout initially. When you get good at it, it takes about 1-3 hours.

The general guidelines for good city layout are:
- Shorter, NOT longer ends of buildings are connected to roads
- Many large buildings are connected by 1 piece of roads or incomplete roads
- 2x2 roads are placed only next to buildings that need them
- No decorations are present
- There are no loops of roads
- Buildings are surrounded by least number of roads
- HQ is placed in the center of the map, not corner or side
- Only newest age (or premium) buildings are used
- No roads are built on the edge of the map
- Expansions are arranged in square shape not polygon with many turns
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CHAPTER 5 – Resource Usage

This is a guide where should you use FPs, goods, coins, diamonds, and supplies to progress through the game quickly and become empire fast.

Your initial goal in the game (if you are not there yet) is to get to Gambrel houses the first 24-h houses. Then your life and this game get better because you do not have to be here every hour or few hours.

The FPs spent on research should GREATLY exceed the FPs on great buildings. This means 90% research and 10% GBs. Later it can be modified to about 80%/20%. The great buildings are cool, but they simply do not give you enough return on investment. Nonetheless, you should have built St. Marks, Lighthouse, and Albert Hall to lvl1 somewhere around EMA-LMA. After, you should start collecting FPs buildings and attack buildings if you want to participate in GvG.

Overproduce goods of your highest age as often as you can so you do not have to produce them in the future. This prevents you from the syndrome "I feel that I do not have enough space." Yea, because you need to produce goods from 5 ages at the same time.

You can buy FPs for coins, but make sure you have plenty of coins for research and city redesign. Every time you get to new 24-h houses you should redesign your city at early ages. For later ages, it can be every other time if you manage fit goods building nicely. Make you have enough resources prepared especially supplies. If you have a huge excess of coins, consider getting Cape built and level it to lvl5-6. This will be extra 5-6 FPs/day. It is better than sitting coins.

Build ONLY 24-h houses. The reason for it is that St. Marks have only 90x bonus. There is not enough of it to have for 8h houses. Also, you get better rewards for motivating them. Three factors are in favor of 24h houses: motivating, ST. Marks bonus, and your time.

Try to build large supply and cultural buildings only. You need to conserve aid actions as much as possible and make the best of them. The larger your buildings are, the less it takes to make your city completely full of stars.

Do not swap buildings often as it is inefficient. Just once per age. Do it when you reach the new 24h houses.

Do not negotiate sectors with resources. This is a huge waste of them. Just put more pressure on the research and research new units that will allow you to move forward at a cheaper cost. Sector negotiation is a huge drain that will hold you back eventually.

You can skip research technologies that are dead ends. They can be done when you are finished with all other research. An exception to this is research technologies that give you expansions.

Any diamonds should be spent first on expansions before anything else. Second most efficient use of diamonds is to purchase the last blueprints for GBs of a new GB. I would not advise building premium buildings with diamonds as they get outdated unless you have plenty of diamonds.
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CHAPTER 6 – FP exchange

Should you donate FPs to yourself? Exchange with one person? Be a part of a small group? Or exchange FPs with a large group through booster thread?

In general, they are really all the same if you are getting a fair deal.

All of these exchanges are just a gradient of possibilities where a number of rewards are inversely proportional to FPs donations to your GBs. Some deals might give you more FPs to your GBs, but you will receive fewer FP packs and BPs, whereas in other deals you might have less FPs to your GBs, but you will get extra FPs packs and BPs.

If your exchange is fair -- great. If you are winning because of your exchange, good job! However, make sure not to screw deliberately other members of your guild. If you are losing in your exchange, there is a problem that you need to fix. How do you know if you are losing or winning? By counting rewards what we call “net FPs”.

First, I want to emphasize that there is a simple solution to counting FPs exchange in a fair way. Counting BPs and medals is much more difficult. The fairest way to exchange FPs is in the "net" form. It means that FPs rewards are subtracted from donation is calculating the balance. For example, player 1 donates overall 1500 FPs and wins 300 FPs in reward, while player 2 donates overall 1600 FPs and wins 600 FPs in rewards. In fixed exchange, you might think that player 2 donated 100 FPs than player 1. However, that is not the case if you want to be fair, player 1 donated 200 FPs more than player 1. Why? The net value is 1200 (1500-300) for player 1 and 1000 (1600-600) for player 2. The reason for it is that the rewards can be auctioned off to other players, and they would be keen to get the rewards for the said amount of FP donation.

Another fair rule is that either the building is either chosen by the donor or recipient. Do not allow something like this to happen to you: I will still want to donate to your Alcatraz, but for now, can you finish my Deal Castle? This is unfair to you, and that person is being selfish.

Below I will explain most of the advantages and disadvantages of each exchange and how to measure the fairness of exchange.

Direct donation to yourself

This method of exchange (or lack of it) is good when you need a lot of FPs to your GBs. You will be the highest donor on your GBs and all other donors to your GB will be other players that are interested mainly in BPs for that building. The average price that is reasonable to pay is 0-10FPs per BPs. So if a reward that you have on your building is 30 FPs + 1BP, you should get 30 to 50 FP donation for that position OR more PLUS Arc Bonus. If you are getting less that, you should let people know that you have good opportunities at your place -- there is a build thread for it. One place where you might be tricked is when somebody contacts you and for example, he wants to donate 70 FPs to your great building (the reward that he is getting is 50 FPs) and he wants you to donate 70 FPs to his building as well (usually some crappy building with little a no reward. I hope you can see where is the problem. He will get net of 20 FP cost + some BPs which is great and you will pay the cost of 70 FPs often without getting any BP. Not a good deal. The two problem with self-donation is you are not getting BPs if you do not have them, and you can get easily sniped for less than what the reward is worth.

Exchange with 1 player
This is probably the exchange that you can make it most fair and get most of it if you find a reasonable person who does not want to trick you. You should exchange net FPs. The best way is for a recipient to choose the GB. It is usually pretty fair. One place where this can go wrong is when your partner asks you to donate smaller amounts of FPs to several GBs. This is often done for a specific reason -- for another person to jump over you so you lose the reward. Make sure that if your partner is getting top1 position on your GB, you are getting top1 position on his GB as well. In general, if you find a reasonable partner, you will get both FPs and rewards. Ideally, Arcs are the similar level bonus and they are included in the net calculation.

Group exchange
The problem that will originate with this exchange who gets the most rewards, medals, and BPs? This will be difficult to track. You should set up some form of an exchange that you will rotate people who win top1,2,3 positions. The FPs should be counted as the net. Also, if you exchange all of your FPs, this is called redistribution of wealth because the person who earns the least FPs will have the most benefit from being part of this group and vice versa. You might also have a person who always wants the top1 position, and then it just becomes difficult. Are you allowing jumping each other at the end of the level to bid for the rewards? That is something else that needs to be addressed. You also need to know that the more partners with significant donations you have on your GB, the less likely somebody outside will donate to your GB. In general, you will receive less FPs to your GB, unless these donations are so small, that you will have people outside jumping all your partners. This can make your partners unhappy as well. It also makes GB easy to snipe and you to lose possible rewards.

Booster thread exchange
The riskiest exchange of all because you really have little control over it. It is basically a lottery. The only way that you can use this to your advantage is to donate few times to the same person, and then drop larger amount to secure your position for rewards. Somebody else can do that too. In that case, you donated FPs but you did not get rewards, somebody else did. This can happen on your GBs, it might be good or bad depending on how you guide it.

There are other forms of exchange, but I want to focus on the 4 most known types.

Places where you might be screwed (intentionally or unintentionally):
1) FPs not counted as net and you get less FPs rewards than another person
2) The person whom you exchange with chooses both the building you donate and receive
3) Somehow you get less FPs than another person
4) If you donate to yourself, another player offers u exchange where he donates to the GB where you donate
5) Your partner asks you to donate a smaller amount to many buildings or there are often people jumping above you and you lose rewards
6) You exchange your all FPs where your partner has less FPs/day than you
7) Your partner needs more BPs than you do for some reason
8) Your partner feels emotional in a group that he/she is not getting enough of rewards even if that player gets more than anybody else
9) Arc not included in the net calculation

Modes of exchange:
A) Donation to yourself (+) highest FPs donation to your GB (-) you get no BPs or FPs packs in rewards, (-) easy to get sniped
B) Exchange with 1 (+) you get both FPs in your GB and rewards (-) slightly less FPs to your own GB as compared to self-donation, (+) hard to be sniped
C) Group exchange (+) possible more frequent reward especially BPs (-) less FPs to your own GBs and possibility of significant imbalances and problems in the exchange, (-) easy to be sniped
D) Booster exchange (+) chance of getting high rewards per FPs donated (-) risk of getting poor deals, (-) easy to be sniped
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CHAPTER 7 - Diamonds

As of today, since the free diamond offers were removed, there is only one way known to me for the most player to get large quantities of free diamonds. We call it "diamond farming" because basically, you use other worlds to set up an account with the main purpose of getting diamonds. There are other ways to get diamonds such as some events on the forum, on Facebook, or even by becoming a moderator. These are, however, much rarer and specific, so I will not discuss them here.

The key point to understand is that currently, diamonds are connected between different worlds of the same server, but not of different servers. The diamonds that you earn on en6 will add to total "en pool". However, diamonds earned on us1, will not be counted toward "en pool". Playing a number of different worlds on the same server does the job. If you can earn 50 diamonds on one world -- you can earn 500 diamonds (on 10 worlds) which you can then spend on one specific world.

There are five main ways that you can earn diamonds in each world that will be discussed in detail:

1) Wishing wells
2) Map
3) Holiday events
4) Standard quests
5) GE

Below you have an example of a diamond farm on 6 cities with 1 Chateau on each and a total of 75 WWs on EN that support EN7:

No diamonds this time :(







(1) Currently, the frequency of 50 a diamond drop per wishing well is about 1%. This means that collectively, you need 100 wishing wells in your all farms to get 50 diamonds a day on average (15000d/year). If you have 20WWs, you will get 10d/day, if you get 40WWs you get 20d/day on average and so on. The wishing wells can be collected slowly over months and years from special events. If you plan to play this game longer, you should start collecting WWs on other worlds. I do not recommend getting WWs on your main world.

(2) You get rewards for map exploration. That is really straightforward. There are a few smaller rewards in early ages and a few larger rewards in later ages. They are not affected by having or not having Chateau, so if you have the time -- progress your city to get them anytime you want.

(3) The diamonds in events usually come in the form of quests. As for the game diamond quests, you want to have Chateau. For event quests, you should try to get your Chateau upgraded as it can double your amount per event. For example, if one world holiday quest reward is 200 diamonds and you have 150% (lvl10 chateau) you will receive 500 diamonds. Assuming that you would have 10 worlds, you get up to a few thousand diamonds from this event -- a pretty nice sum. When has a farm made sure that you can open 1-2 technologies, conquer a sector, or scout a sector? These are some possible quests in holiday quests and they can be painful if you are unprepared.

(4) You should not start doing in-game diamond quests unless you have high-level chateau -- let them wait. When you have high-level Chateau -- milk them.

(5) It is possible to gain net positive diamonds in GE if you stop at 61/48, and you have a large
attack/defense bonus and you are very careful at negotiating in the GE.

Should you use diamonds to get the missing BPs for your Chateau and have a hard time collecting them on your diamond farm? If it is the last BP, YES! This investment will pay for itself during the next holiday event.

How many worlds (farms) should you have? As many as your time schedule allows to visit once a day and collect.

Should you standardize (synchronize) your world (farms) so that they look at the same? Yes, because that saves you time when you collect.

What is the downside of doing all of this and getting diamonds? 10 min every day to play all other worlds. It is a long-term investment that will pay off next year, but not now.

From what I understand, moderators are also paid in diamonds, for working on the forum. Consider becoming a moderator.

Finally, you will most likely earn many more diamonds doing landscaping work or any other low-paying job for cash (and then buying diamonds) than just farming diamonds. However, if you do not want to spend any money on this game and you have extra time, consider doing the techniques described above.
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CHAPTER 8 – Finding the last BP

Many players get frustrated because it appears that they never can get the last BP for GB and all forces are against them in the universe just so they cannot get what they need.

When you start at 0 BPs, what is the chance that you find 9 consecutive missing BPs?

1*8/9*7/9*6/9...*1/9 = 9^9/9! = 0.001 or 0.1%

This means that only 1 of 1000 players will find 9 consecutive missing BPs, and rest of them (999 including you) will have to deal with doubles. If you extend this probability to finding more sets of the same GB to open levels above lvl10, you will find even lower chance to find just the right amount of each BP. Therefore you will have to deal all the time with double BPs and those that you do not want. Accept it and move on, but what other things can you change?

One variable that you can definitely change is how many BPs you get by altering your polivating method. Remember that when you polish or motivate specific GB you have a chance of winning the BP for the same age as the GB that you polivate. The aid feature makes it a little more difficult to get the right BPs. The aid feature saves your time, but you will hit a variety of buildings because the general pattern when aid is choosing special buildings -> highest to lower age. Therefore, if you want specific BP like St. Marks, try to polish or motivate only (not aid) the buildings from High Middle Ages. Remember that you have 50% chance of getting St. Marks and 50% chance of getting Notre Dame BP (*** there are some opinions that specific buildings are likely to give specific buildings but there is not enough evidence to prove it). Some of you might get even 4 BPs (1 out of 16 chance) from the same age that you do not want. There is a relatively high chance of that and you should expect it because sometimes it will happen. You should not, however, use this polivating pattern all the time because the entire guild needs aiding, so use this polivating patter when you really need the BP.

Their second way to get more BPs is to donate to other people GBs. However, you have to be really careful not to overpay. Ideally, you exchange FPs and donate to the GB that you are missing and somebody donates to the GB that you and he or she are relatively happy about. If that is not the case, you have to go and hunt for BPs in other cities, but this might create an ethical dilemma that I will explain below.

You want to browse your neighborhood, guild, and friend cities and look at their GB of your interest. You want to add 1 FP to the GBs where you think you might get a deal. In this way, you can follow it every day when you press Town Hall -> News -> Great Buildings. The best GBs to add 1 FP and to track them are those that already are 1/2 way to go and have very few or no donors. Ideally, there is only 1 donor the owner or the person who exchanges with the owner. When you feel that the BPs is the right price you drop all the FPs needed to secure your position. What is the right price for BP that you want? net 0-15 FPs/BP (for people without Arc, high Arc individuals should get these BPs for free). This means that if your reward that you try to secure is 40 FPs and 2 BPs a reasonable cost for this spot would be 40 to 70 FPs depending on circumstances. Anything below is a great deal, and anything above it is you wasting your FPs. As you see, you want to drop these FPs in the last moment to secure your position, so keeping enough coins (can be converted to FPs) or BP packs are imperative, so you have some liquidity that you can use.

Why this "BP hunting" is good for everybody? It allows selling BPs at a competitive cost. This is good for both donor and recipient. Both sides get a reasonable deal for the value that they are offering. Also, donors that donate 1 FP still contribute to the GB, so that increases the speed of upgrading. It might become painful to GB owner at levels 30-60 when you can get sniped for the much lower price than the value of the reward.

Now the main question that you should have is: What if you have to jump over your guildmates to secure the spot on the GB and force them to take lower spaces? Will, you hurt that person and that person might come to complain to you that you caused less benefit from the GB? Should you do that? OF COURSE, YOU SHOULD! The person who invests less or simply invest daily a little bit in GB must understand the risk of losing the GB position. What is worse this person is risking losing position to a person outside of the guild. If "moral" rules are imposed on not jumping each other, you might end up in a situation that both guild members do not get the spot that is wanted by both of them, and it is taken by somebody outside of the guild. The problem is with the person who is donating less not the jumper. The person who donates less is being possibly being too cheap and wants cheaper reward hence that person is taking risking losing the reward. If jumping is allowed at least 1 person from your guild would take it. Of course, you should jump each other on GB because even it might not be particularly helpful to a specific player, it is beneficial for the guild in overall. Also, it trains you to be a competitive player who does not need a "protective environment" -- the fundamental members of any strong guild.

One other question regarding BPs:

Should you trade 2:1 BPs?

If it is your first set -- YES, but make sure that you trade 2:1 only when you are missing the last 1 or 2 BPs. Otherwise, you might find a duplicate for the BP that you traded for.

If it is your following set (lvl10+) -- NO, it is inefficient, and it is better to wait and save BPs. You need too many attempts to find the right BP. It is better to save all those BPs for the following levels. Start trading if u have at least 80 of particular BP type.
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CHAPTER 9 - GvG Fundamentals

This guide is for the guild members that want to be a part of a competitive team who either wants to win against other competitive guilds and/or hold a larger chunk of land. If you are planning to win a sector or two and then lose it a week later and do it again as a guild, this you might not agree with what is provided below. I will discuss some issues of gearing up and teamwork for GvG which is the plague of failing GvG not how to fight which is usually straightforward. I assume that you know the very basics (e.g. what is a sector or how to place a siege). You can find out the basics by reading our forum and showing up to our GvG events.

There is a big difference between PvP (when you attack somebody's city) and GvG (when you play on sector map with other members). PvP is very self-centered. You pick the time of the day when you want to attack and you can decide yourself if you want to play manual or auto-battle. You can also pick an age of your units and your opponent. None of these really translates to GvG. Players who were involved in fighting and plundering in PvP when they jump to GvG, they might have a poor understanding of what GvG is. I will explain below what GvG is.

The GvG is about teamwork and synchronization. Hopefully, your leader picks a right place for you to attack where the most of the guild members can participate. This can include one lower age, one higher age, or all ages at the same and this depends on the power and the goal of the guild. Sometimes I hear this "I am in PME and I want to fight in PME," well that unlikely because in GvG player must join the guild's plan, not the guild must join the player's plan. I simply advise for that player to go do some PvP in this case.

There have been players that choose to fight at their own speed during GvG, not the speed that the team requires them to fight. If a player has too few units and he or she can do only a few fights, then this is reasonable for the fighter to fight slow. However, if somebody has a reasonable number of units and we need to fight fast (auto), and that person still chooses to do manual, the entire team suffers because the pressure to finish battles fast is shifted on those that are willing to fight fast (auto). Moreover, the worst thing that the strong player can do is to complain that he cannot get his manual battles in because all others are going too fast. This tells you something about this player. Again, if there is reason (e.g. very small attack bonus or few units) manuals is only the choice, but otherwise, players in GvG should try to follow an average team attack speed. Again if you always choose manual fights and do not work with the team, I would advise not joining GvG and simply doing your PvP rounds.

GvG is about gathering enough players at the same time. In GvG, we are usually faced with fighting about 80 battles. This means that usually, you need a total loss of 20-200 units per sector (depending on their attack bonus, defense bonus, and type of unit) for all players because some will get damaged and some will die. If only a few players show up, then the loss will be strongly distributed on these players that work as a team and they will lose the most. As a result, they will not be able to work for a team in the future because of a lack of troops. If you are showing up with 30 units to fight, think that you probably need another 10 of you to win the sector, otherwise you will fight and get stuck because you will run out of troops. Nonetheless, every little helps even if you can do 2-3 battles a meeting, this helps the team because it takes some pressure off heavy hitters that usually do the most of the work. However, if you cannot show up on time ever, you are no help in GvG as a fighter no matter how many units you have, how advanced your city is, and how knowledgeable strategist you are. A leader of a guild should vary the attack times so most players can participate, but again players require some little schedule flexibility to be part of the GvG team. If you cannot do that, PvP is probably the choice for you if you want to fight.

Having cleared misconceptions and problems that might arise from not understanding GvG, I can move on and tell you what you need to get to become really helpful in GvG.

First, you need a GvG leader who understands the GvG in general sense. This player knows or can find out when the attacks will be optimal (least resistance and most attending). Also, these players have an idea of how to advance on the map to both secure positions and face the least resistance. This player does not just always scream "attack fast! fast! gogo!," but this player knows when to conserve units and go slower (manual) and when to go faster (auto). This player understand as well when he has to quit because the cost of keeping going is too high. Resource conservation planning is crucial to understand.

Second, you need tools to fight. There are three key toys to GvG are Alcatraz, attack bonus GBs, and rogue hideout. As long as you find the BPs for Alcatraz, it is usually not a problem even the first level of Alcatraz gives you 4 unattached units /day which is a lot for a starter. The goods for Alcatraz can be usually acquired from senior members of your guild if you do not have enough. The attack bonus GBs are always a drag on your economy and you want to balance according to how much progress you want vs. how much power in GvG do you want. Lastly, the rogue hideout is always a problem. You can get it 2-4 times a year usually, and if you did not get it this holiday even, you are likely to wait 3-6 months for the next opportunity. Unattached rogues are really the fuel for the GvG as they are the best unit to use there.

What happens if you do not have a rogue hideout? Problems. Your Alcatraz will pump units from specific age but your guild might fight another age. You will have no units to fight. In order to fight with your guild, you will have to build many army buildings in order to have a significant impact on a team -- just for 40 attacked units, you will need 10 buildings where this can be a drag on some players in earlier ages.

How many units and which units do you need? Usually, you need as many rogues as all other units combined. This is a rule of thumb. E.g. 280 rogues, 20 IA, 20 EMA, 20 HMA... 20 TE (20 from each age from 14 ages) would be a nice basic set that would allow you to fight any era any time.

The items listed above presents the fundamental understanding of GvG.
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CHAPTER 10 – Selling goods for FPs

When you start really crave for FPs, this chapter might be for you. The technique described above might double to quadruple your current city income. However, you might spend many additional hours playing this game. You need to understand legal issues, as goods selling is controversial but overall legal activity.

Think about goods, medals, coins, and FPs packs are being tradable. It is an unregulated market, but as long as you understand it and willing to work it, you will do fine. It is important not to cross the legality line and I will address it in a few paragraphs below.

If you produce coins and convert them to FPs, can you produce goods and sell them for FPs, and more FPs profit? If you can, then you should.

How is the ratio between goods and FP related? It is set by the market, but it is guided by the house coin production. For most goods sellers, it is equivalent to about 2-4 times more income as for the same space filled with houses and comparable to efficiency between bazaar and shrine (sometimes it can go above shrine efficiency). You can contact top players in your guild to find out more about specific rates. If you find noobs or low-age players, you might get more beneficial rates for yourself because they see value in higher age goods because they do not have access to them. For example, a player that is looking for Alcatraz goods and is currently in LMA most likely will pay quite a nice sum for goods set to build it.

The hardest part of goods selling is finding customers. Sending multiple messages with offers is not illegal in this game, and feel free to send as many messages as you want with your offer. It is often the case that you will get about 1 to 5 replies per 1,000 messages sent. Sending 1,000 messages really fast takes about 2 hours.

Then you negotiate the price. As you grow bigger, you might realize that you can add a certain modification to your trading system.
- Consider giving goods upfront before asking for payment (with about 1000 FP/goods trades, I had maybe 3-5 bad apples)
- Offer every single age good
- Consider becoming a salesperson (hire producer and you become an intermediate where you make a profit on the difference between what you pay for a producer and what you get from the buyer)
- Start using the net system
- Give incentives for referrals

When you develop long-term customers, the entire system becomes much less time-consuming.

Is this selling goods for FPs legal? Yes.

From game rules:
"8) Pushing -- Operating a push account or knowingly benefiting from it is forbidden. A push account is an account that is mainly used to help another account while neglecting other parts of the game. This means that it is not allowed to use an account solely for the purpose of helping another account grow, or to knowingly receive benefits or any kind of support from such account."

This means that you can produce goods yourself or purchase goods and then sell them because all the people in the trade feel that they benefit. What you cannot do, however, is make an account and force it to either produce goods or force it to purchase goods. Any of these actions are illegal.

Speed and good communication with buyers are important as they usually will stick with those that provide higher customer service.

You can sell medals by joining other guilds and donating medals to their treasury as well.

Once every few months you can do a swipe through your friend list to kick out those that do not buy from you. Be nice to them even if you remove them from the list -- inform them politely that you can add them whenever they want to purchase again. Keep them around even if they are not on your friend list :)

Also, if you choose to produce (or buy from the producer) highest age goods, and you should (unless you are particularly short on some goods in high demand), then you can trade them down 1.5: 1 to 2: 1 down the ages and make an additional profit. The number of goods traded down usually increases faster than goods: FP ratio for lower ages.

Most of all, sometimes you can get more FPs to your GBs just by begging on the chat. If you have time you can consider doing it.
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CHAPTER 11 – Review of high efficiency FPs mining

These are patterns that can be used to obtain high efficiency FPs mining and elements can be obtained in large quantities. They are arranged in increasing FPs/square order.

The layouts below must qualify ALL of the following:
- any empty spaces smaller than 2x2 are counted as wasted because no FP GB can be built there
- disconnected from road empty spaces are counted as wasted
- ideally arrangement is square shape unless it is superior to all other layouts
- player is able to obtain building components in large quantities where cost of finishing a building is less than 1000 diamonds per building

22 size (Bazzar)

2 fps
0 goods
0% attack
0.091 fps/sq
0.000 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


36 size (Cherry)

5 fps
5 goods
5% attack
0.139 fps/sq
0.139 goods/sq
0.139 %att/sq


45 size (Indian)
6 fps
10 goods
0% attack
0.133 fps/sq
0.222 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


32.5 size (Terrace)
0 goods
0% attack
0.154 fps/sq
0.000 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


75 size (Indian)

12 fps
10 goods
0% attack
0.160 fps/sq
0.266 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


18 size (Black Tower)
3 fps
5 goods
0% attack
0.166 fps/sq
0.277 goods/sq
0.000 %attack//sq


12 size (Winter Village)
2 fps
6 goods
6% attack
0.166 fps/sq
0.5 goods/sq
0.5% attack/sq


35 size (Winter Village)
*** top/bottom SS only 3 out of 4 buildings connected -1 goods/building
6 fps
24 goods
3% attack
0.171 fps/sq
0.685 goods/sq
0.085 %attack/sq


49 size (Winter Village)
*** top/bottom SS only 3 out of 4 buildings connected -1 goods/building
9 fps
27 goods
3% attack
0.183 fps/sq
0.551 goods/sq
0.060% attack/sq


64 size (Cherry)

10 fps
12 goods
10% attack
0.186 fps/sq
0.156 goods/sq
0.156 %attack/sq


121 size (Indian)

24 fps
30 goods
0% attack
0.198 fps/sq
0.248 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


5 size (Shrine)
1 fp
0 goods
0% attack
0.2 fps/sq
0.000 goods/sq
0.000 %attack/sq


48 size (Cherry)
10 fps
10 goods
5% attack
0.208 fps/sq
0.208 goods/sq
0.104 %attack/sq


108 size (Indian)
24 fps
20 goods
0% attack
0.222 fps/sq
0.185 goods/sq
0.000 attack/sq

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Moreover, what is the worst part about cultural GBs they will eat up your guild mates aids actions. In order to keep your GBs polished, they need to be clicked twice per day. If you have 10 of them, these buildings will eat up 20 actions per day for no real reward.
I think this is a typo - cultural GBs can't be polished?


I stopped after the first few lines when you posted

......We want to address in this message about GBs in this game. We classify GBs in 6 classes:
1) GBs that you must have immediately (The Arc, St. Marks, Lighthouse, and Royal Albert Hall)
Who wrote this guide? People who run 5 years top1 guild.

Why on earth advise a new player to build those 4 first? a) a new player will not be able to build those 4 for a long time so will build others before they get a RAH or ARC b) why advise a RAH is essential, most players build a lighthouse long before they even have a option of a RAH and if this is leveled up to 6 or 7 it should provide all the supplies needed.
The essential first GB's are St Marks and the Lighthouse.
Then the player has to decide if farmer or fighter and the next most important GB's will depend on this question. Plus player has to decide GB leveling or Tech tree, its not black and white at all

2nd point to make is that you have only led EN7 for 804 days so where does the 5 years #1 guild claim come from?

But saying this i still have about 20 posts to read, but take it from a founder of a #1 guild in EN your advise of GB's to build immediately is wrong but i will try and read all the rest tomorrow and comment more fully


CHAPTER 12 – The Arc

Why Arc was a game changer? Because it allowed explosion of all other GBs. The details would be explained below.

This is an important graph that you need to understand how Arc works.

The X axis is level of onwer's Arc that is being worked on

The Y axis is net cost of Arc (it means that total FPs required MINUS FPs earned by donor including donor's Arc bonus). This means total FPs required to complete GB after maximum FPs are harvested from rewards.

Different lines represent different Arc bonuses of donors. The better the donor bonus, the less the owner of GB has to pay for his GB because more FPs is coming back from the rewards.

Positive overall Y value means that GB owner must contribute to level GB, while negative value means that GB owner can actually profit from leveling a GB.

This graph assumes that GB owner works with 5 other donors that have the same arc value (different lines).

arc gb.jpg

The reason why you have such a graph pattern is because the reward although it is unknown, it appears to be linear, while total FPs of Arc is exponential (next level total FPs = previous level total FPs *1.025). During levels 0-10, the total FPs values are fixed, while rewards are small. This is why you have such an increase in cost. During levels 10-50, the exponential function is early stage and is overrun by linear function of rewards. While after lvl50, the exponential function (total FPs) explodes with respect to linear function (rewards), making GBs very pricey. You can appreciate the impact of the increasing rewards by noticing that after lvl10 the different color lines are further and further apart, while after lvl60 they start to come closer again becasue rewards become insignificant with respect to overall cost of GB.

The Arc increases to 30% in first ten levels, then by 1% to level 60, then for next 20 levels by 0.5% until 190% total, and then 0.1% per level afterwards.

In early spring 2016, we were able to develop this graph when our Arc’s were just started to grow. We understood that if Inno made 1% per level or even 0.5% per level, we could have huge profits (we assumed that initial lvl20, lvl40, lvl60 pattern would follow and there was possibility that overall cost of GB would be negative). However, Inno correctly assigned 0.1% after lvl80, still theoretically possible to achieve a time when certain GBs levels become free of real cost, but limiting these levels to narrow range of 40-60 only when huge arc bonuses are provided as donors.

Notice that for “average” player who gets a little bit extra on top of his reward maybe 100% or 120% or 140%, the cost really increases with level. Majority of players will not be able to break through the “cheap” levels, and they will be stuck in expensive range lvl5-20 forever. Even if they do, starting from lvl 20-30, they will start to be heavily sniped as GB is much more attractive with rewards and this increasing the cost for the host again. This is basically 95-99% of all players. First, you need to get to higher level, and second you need donors with high arc to provide the combination that does the magic.

The costs pattern is not identical for each individual GB and that goes beyond of this topic, but it follows similar patterns.

Majority of average experienced players (unless they do not earn horrendous amounts of FPs) stop their GBs around lvl60-80. If you follow the teal line which represents the 100+90% arc (lvl80) donor, the line starts significantly creep up after owner of GB reached lvl60, and shoot up vertically after lvl80.The rule of thumb is that even with all 90% arcs, the lvl80 for most GBs costs about 1000 FPs, and that is often too much.

The reason players choose to take their arc from lvl60 to lvl80 is because there is a significant in GB leveling cost reduction from purple line (80%) to teal line (90%). It might appear initially that there is a little difference between 180% and 190% in sniping, but that is a big difference. If the sniping profits margins are small e.g. 10%, additional 10% might double the profit making the large investment into Arc reasonable. There are players that rush their Arc beyond 90%, but in reality that will not have a significant impact. In order to provide costs on such investments these players will have to hoard FPs left and right, snipe day and night, and employ an army of noobs that will feed Fps in variety of ways to them. This action is often driven by wanting to have highest GB in the ranking. The cost of leveling arc 80->180 lvl is about few million FPs, and that is just too pricey for 10% extra bonus for 99.999% players.

This graph also explains why levels 30-70 are so prone to sniping from outside. This is because the rewards are increasing significantly with respect to not so fast increasing total FPs making GB attractive to stealing what could have been used to level the GB, but then leaving the empty unfilled gap, and if it is done on correct GB, the GB owner is usually forced to cover the remaining.

The little Zig-Zaging of the function line is due to rounding to nearest “5fp” on GBs, and it has no significant effect overall.
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CHAPTER 13 – GvG HQ and Defense Bonus

One of most annoying thing that can happen is when an inexperienced member with trusted rights moves HQ, and that person has minimal understanding of the consequences and mechanism of HQ bonus distribution that can easily lead to your guild losing several additional sectors.

50% and especially 75% sectors are a deterrent. They can be killed by larger guilds pretty quickly, but in repetitive fights when filled with correct defense units especially when attacker is forced to go auto, it can cause significant damage to the attacker. 0% sectors are much more vunerable and easier to kill, and often attacker losses less than half of units than defender. An action from one person placing HQ correctly and understanding how 50% bonus is applied to sectors can often cause more damage to other guild than several fighters. That skill can give an edge when war is pretty even.

The specific age defense points are different to the Support Pool Bonus that guilds receive from guild level. However, they are linked by support factor.

(Support Pool Bonus + Total defense bonus from all defense GBs in guild) / Support Factor for specific age = Total defense points for specific age

> Support Pool Bonus
A guild receives these points for higher level. It is the number with a shield.

> Total defense bonus from all defense GBs in guild
Every defense GB contributes extra points on top of Support Pool Bonus. St. Basil contributes 3 points (for 1st 10 levels), Deal Castle contributes 3 points (for 1st 10 levels), and observatory contributes 10 points.

> Support factor
It is a number that is preset. They can be derived by solving the equation above when it is only the variable missing. It can be derived also from the ratio of support factors when you know total defense points for specific age. Also other numbers from that equation can be derived for example, you do not have to add all your defense GBs within the guild, but you can derive the total.2
I derived them previously, but I can be wrong if I do not remember them correctly. Please let me know if I got it wrong.
IA - 1.0
EMA - 1.5
HMA - 2.0
LMA - 3.0
CA - 4.0
InA - 6.0
PE - 8.0
ME - 10.0
CE - 12.0
TE - 14.0
TF - 16.0
AA - 16.0

> Total defense points for specific age
This is a total number of % that is redistributed to sectors as a defense.
For most (higher ages) the maximum % defense for HQ is 75% and other sectors is %50
Exceptions include (HQ/other sectors)
InA 25%/0% | EMA 35%/10% | HMA 45%/20% | LMA 55%/30% | CA 65%/40%

These lower values make sectors less stable and easier to take making it less attractive to older and larger guilds.

In our case = Support Pool Bonus (8540) + Total defense bonus from all defense GBs in guild (3092) = 11632 total bonus

Specific age (AA) total defense bonus = 11632 / 16 = 727 (%)

In other words, we can fill one HQ (75%) and 13 other sectors (13*50%=650%) total of 725% before next sectors will not have full bonus.

The defense bonus is distributed in concentric circles from HQ, which means the closest sectors to HQ have the priority to receiving it. Here is how priority of sectors would look like on these arrangements. If there is enough defense bonuses on HQ, it would spread to 1-away-from-HQ, if all sectors have enough bonus that are 1-away, then 2-away would receive defense bonus and so on.


On this image the sector marked with green “3” and red “4” is actually NOT 4 sectors away from HQ but 3. The priority for sectors receiving defense bonus is based on SHORTEST DISTANCE FROM HQ and not on shortest connected distance.


Again in case above we had total 11632 for pool bonus and factor of 16 giving total 727% defense for AA. See image below for this example.
HQ gets 75% defense (652% left)
1-away sectors get 50% defense each x5 total of 250% (402% left)
2-away sectors get 50% defense each x5 total of 250% (152% left)
3-away sectors are unable to get full 50% and total of 200%, they receive an equal share of what is left 152%/4=38%


Disconnected sectors from HQ never receive bonus no matter how close or how far they are. Note: marked sectors belong to the same guild.


Here is an example of why HQ placement is important. Consider a guild with 475% AA total defense bonus. If HQ is placed in the middle, it will cover most important sectors, but all beaches sectors will be open, and they will be most likely chewed up by opponent guilds or point seekers.


Knowing how defense is redistributed you can make it much more annoying your arrangement to those that want to harass your land. Notice here all beach sectors are fully defended and most of back sectors are as well with total of 475 points. Again, the arrangement depends on the circumstance, but you want to make sure that you get the best HQ position for your specific situation.


HQ moves usually are not necessary during battles because they can bring more problems than benefit. HQ can be moved during crucial times like slaughtering expensive sectors, easy kill, or especially wiping another guild from the map. However, one should think twice about moving HQ. In this case where a guild want to attack a guild located on bottom left, if HQ is moved, that HQ can be “snapped” above from the rest of the land. If that happens then, there is 24 hours when all sectors disconnected are now 0%. It is often too high price to pay. Therefore, I strongly advise moving ALWAYS HQ last second before timer reset only. It always keeps a surprise to your opponent and leaves you always one move of HQ to correctly position it at any time. Moreover, the only time when you know HQ position is certain is when it has shield on, if it does not have shield on, you move it to a sector and you lose that sector, now you are screwed because HQ has jumped (probably to a location that you do not want) so tomorrow you have screwed up bonus distribution, and you lost an sector as well. Poor planning.


To elaborate on what has been said previously about Deal Castle and St. Basil that they are not the greatest GBs. Even though they support the guild overall bonus, they only give 3% (3 points) per initial level, while after lvl10, they give 5% (5 points) per 10 levels. It means that you will get about 30 % (points) for 10 levels or 60% for 70 levels. This means for AA with factor of 16 that by adding one Deal castle lvl10 you get about 2% AA extra defense points total while by adding one lvl70 Deal you add about 4% AA extra defense to the total. Now, observatory is the right GB to go here when a guild can afford it. Observatory gives 10 bonus points per lvl so for AA it means about 0.6% defense per lvl for as many levels you want. Having 10 observatories with lvl60 (about 6000 bonus points extra) would give 375% extra bonus which allows to cover 7.5 sectors more extra which is a significant amount. The bottom line: Observatory IS a GB that contributes significantly to GvG, St. Basil and Deal ARE NOT GBs that contribute to GvG significantly.
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== This section will be in progress for a while. Please send me suggestions if you do not agree with what I have posted. I will try them out and update this section. Also, if you have suggestions for good comobs please let me know. ==

CHAPTER 14 - Units combinations for GvG

Here you will find a list of combinations that allow you to make your life a bit easier, and make your enemy life miserable.

Please note that unit combinations differ for GvG and map expedition. The AI for GvG is much more primitive as compared to the map expedition. If attacked with 1 unit + 7 rogues combination, in GvG, defending army will usually go hit rogue unless your unit does not run far away. In the map expedition, there is high chance that AI will kill your units first before hitting rogues. Hence, mix of rogues, and units is preferred. Using mainly units is preferred for map expedition UNLESS you are doing all battles on manual then you might benefit from more rogues in map expedition.

In this guide, if combos are labeled UNIVERSAL, it means they will have superior performance against any combination when under pressure where retreat is not an option these combinations will allow you to lose least units per auto fight (or cause more damage) when sector needs to be killed faster. Many ages do not have universal attack or universal defense. Combinations labeled with GREAT combinations give you best combinations available, but they are not immune to a few specific combinations that counter that combo. SPECIFIC combos are combinations that are good to knock out combos that focus on killing GREAT attacker combos.

Can rogue be a good defensive unit? Yes. But, it is a great defensive unit in the lower ages only. It really deals with its speed. Rogue is a very fast unit as compared to LMA and below, and therefore it is an excellent unit to use in defense mixes. Above PE, in general, rogues either not strengthen defense or weaken it, but usually the latter. In CA and InA, they still can be used in some efficiency. Rogues in PE used as a defense indicate lack of proper units on units on defender side, and can help making correct strategic decisions.

When you play GvG, your siege should vary, as your defense except unique ages like CE where there is only one choice. In this way, you surprise attacker and force him to either change units or contniue to hit with unfavorable combos and lose more units.

You attacker might take your sector with these defnses, and laugh on globa, but in their guild they will complain how many units lost during last attack.

Can some small additional vairations in defese prove helpful? Yes, but here I cover how at least 6-7 armies out of 8 armies in a sector should look like.

=== InA ===
The most bloody lower age era. This is era where you can bleed aggressor a lot if you control well defense combinations, and you cover your sectors with 50% defense. It is the first era where you hold 50% non HQ sectors, and if your world is still young you can easily hold sectors and repel enemies easily. The overall best attack combo is howitzer and rogues, but still your army will bleed if you meet well put together defense. Using riflemans for mainly howitzers combos might lower the losses as well as using lancers for mainly rifleman combos will decrease loss, but not a lot, and it will require a lot of time to retreat and rearrange units. The defenses are usually based on the core mix of riflemans + howitzers foundations that covers all attack except 1 rifleman + 7 rogues. Some mixed in other jaegers can prove 1rile+7rogue attack useless and mixed rogues make often additional losses.
GREAT ATTACK: 1 Howitzer + 7 rogues > 1 Lancer + 7 Rogues
SPECIAL ATTACK (against many howitzers): 1 Rifleman + 7 Rogues
UNIVERSAL DEFENSE: 3 Howitzer + 2 Rifles base PLUS remaining mix of: riles (against howitzers), jaegers (against rifle attack), howitzer (against lancers), rogues (additional unexpected losses because of dumb AI on auto)

=== CE ===
CE is the simplest era of all eras. There is one great defense combo and one great attack combo. Any person who is not using 1 AAV + 7 rogues for an attack is a noob. Anybody who is using anything different than 8 Assault Tanks for defense is a noob (7 Assault + 1 Champ is acceptable). Many people stock up on attack bonus thanks to strike team and then have bunch of strike team trash from Alcatraz that is neither good in attack or defense. The only case where you can add strike team is if u plan to do 100’s and 1000’s battles for next few days (as few as possible to limit traz trash) and then you can add 20 strike teams to up your attack bonus by 100% the waste of strike teams from traz, might still offset the units lost. As soon as you are done with heavy attack, they should be wiped out. Strike team is worst attack and worst defense. If you fill defense with them, you are most likely hurting your guild not helping them.
UNIVERSAL DEFENSE: 8 Assault Tanks or 7 Assault Tanks + 1 Champ

=== TE ===
Champions dominate in general. Their 25% higher attack and defense, and higher speed give them an edge above invisible stealth tanks. 8 champions defense is nearly a guarantee that aggressor losses units even with 0%, and they are more brutal at 50% and 75%. This defense can be approached with microwave blaster. However, this attacker approach can be prevented by throwing in some variation with microwave blaster and adding combat drones to fully prevent blaster attacks. However, many players do not own TE champs (you should, make sure you store this building if you need to remove it!!!). In this case, the attacker is bound to hit with stealth tanks and microwave blasters and combat drones can be use where there is many blasters in defense. Defense mainly focuses having large number of champs and then additional combination of stealth tanks, UAPs, and blasters.
UNIVERSAL ATTACK: 1 TE Champ + 7 Rogues
GREAT ATTACK: 1 Stealth Tank + 7 Rouges
SPECIAL ATTACK (against many blasters and many stealth tanks): 1 Blaster + 7 Rouges
SPECIAL ATTACK (against 8 Blaster): Combat Drone
GREAT DEFENSE: 8 Stealth Tanks, 8 Blasters, 8 UAPs, Mix of Stealth Tanks & Blasters,
SPECIAL DEFENSE: Adding Combat Drones (to prevent blaster attack) but usually one is not enough as 1 blaster + 7 rogues, 7 rogues will kill one drone

=== TF ===
Rails overall are very strong unit and they are perfect attack combo against one of the most annoying combos 8 hoovers. Rails only take severe hit from 8 drones with significant defense bonus like 50% or 75%. Champs in TF are just average, and they can be utilized as attacking but overall they are weaker unit than TE champs. TF champs suffer because they are poor against rails which are used often and hoover tanks which are often as well. Hoover and rogues mix is another interesting combination that can be used both for the attack and defense.
UNIVERSAL ATTACK: Rainbow between 1 Rail + 7 Rogues and 8 Rails
SPECIAL ATTACK (against 8 Drones): 1 Stealth Tank + 7 Rouges or 1 Champion + 7 Rogues
GREAT DEFENSE: Mix of 8 Rails, 8 Drones, 8 Hoovers

*** For all of these combination when using 1 unit + 7 rogue combo with auto might easily result in loss of entire army. The suggestions for auto is to use 2 units + 6 rogue combo
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I stopped after the first few lines when you posted
Why on earth advise a new player to build those 4 first?
I too, felt those 4 are wrong to start with, but for entirely different reasons. It's not that they can't build them very soon, comb through top players, throw invites at people with the right GBs(Dynamic Tower, Inno Tower, (insert preferred happiness GB(mine is Lotus Temple for low age) and the Arc)....do some guild hopping and build up a stash of coins, then go and apply to a high membership, rank 40ish guild and get an eye toward buying advanced goods with forge points. I choose Dynamic Tower first, because of supplies, and it allows you to only have to make an FP for goods deal once.


wow pawelp , you spent a lot of time doing these msgs props to you ,